Siem Reap - Dec 2010

Wow, where do I start?! What an amazing place Siem Reap is. Before I got there, I was a bit skeptical on the whole third-world country thing. It's not because of the poverty or I prefer a five-star holiday, it's because I grew up in the same environment so I thought there won't be anything I haven't seen before. How wrong was I!
 

We arrived in Siem Reap at 7.30am. The airport was nicely done (was told it's new). And clean. My first thought was Malaysia (or should I say Penang) should have a good look at itself. Everywhere we go, we constantly see people sweeping, picking plastic wrappers that tourists threw. The public toilets were 10 times cleaner than public toilets in Australia. Not a single plastic wrapper in the river that goes through the town area. It was so clean that if there isn't a bin around every time I want to throw my cigarette butt away, I put it out then hang on to it till I find a bin.

Upon arrival at our hotel (Golden Banana Boutique Hotel) we were greeted by some friendly staff. They offered us some Cambodian coffee and while we were sipping away, one of the staff gave us a brief (or not so brief) explanation on Siem Reap and what we can do. After the briefing, we were escorted to our room/villa. It is beautiful. Much than we had hoped for. Oh, when we tipped them, the grin on their face was priceless. And it was only a couple of dollars.

After settling in, we had a wander around town, looking for a nice restaurant for lunch. We didn't spend too much time out and about, we were tired because we didn't get much sleep the night before.

We had a couple of hours of rest before we head out again, this time to Nom Bakheang for the sunset. The hotel already organise a tuk tuk driver, Thy, to take us there. The ride was somewhat interesting. There were a few times where I thought we're gonna crash. Hehe.

Nom Bakheang was amazing. This is our first taste of what's the fuss about temples in Cambodia. It is beyond anything I have ever imagined! Photos I have seen doesn't do it justice at all. All I can say is go see it for yourself, they don't call it one of the seven wonders of the world with no reason.

On our second day, we did the main 3 temples, Angkor Wat, Ta Phrom and Angkor Thom. Again, breathtaking. The intricate carvings, the history behind every brick and stone... We were told a lot of things about these temples but I don't think I'll post them. It'll take too long.

Third day, we booked ourselves for the floating village trip. Here, you'll see how poor these people live. We were told 6000 people live here. There's an orphanage (on a boat), a basketball court (on a boat), school, sundry shop, hair salon, all on a boat. Some other facts were 

• 10 - 15 people were killed each year from boat accidents. 

• Some were killed from drinking the water from the river because they couldn't afford clean water. 

• Only 2 or 3 teachers teach at the school.

• More than 200 kids in 1 classroom.

• $40 a month to learn English (you have to know English to become a tour guide and tour guide is one of the best job around.) but $10 a year to learn Cambodian.

• Our tour guide's got 8 brothers and sisters. His parent died in a landmine explosion 10 years ago. He is the only one supporting his family.

There are many more, but I think to give you an idea, those few points will do. We can't help but feel bad for the kids after learning all these facts. And having kids paddling themselves in their little bucket (pic below) to beg for money is just wrong. Peter and I knew there's no use giving them money, their parents will just take the money and spend it on drugs or alcohol. Our guide suggested we buy some rice and give it to the teacher at the orphanage and we did. 15kg of rice at USD$25. We just fed 200 kids. We certainly felt good after that.

We spent 2 more days traveling around Siem Reap, saw some amazing temples and intricate carvings, ate some good food and made some friendly people. There are a lot of things that I left out, things that I experienced and feelings I felt, those are the things it's better if you go experience and see for yourself because words can't really describe them. During my time there at Siem Reap, I realised how good we've got it back at home. Both Malaysia and Australia. I have not seen any of the local wear any branded clothes. No NIKE, no LEVIS. Not a fast food restaurant in sight. No McDonald's, no KFC. No big billboards of advertising (not even small ones). Everything cost a few dollars. I remembered, on our first night there, we went to the night market to do some shopping. You are expected to bargain here but the price we were bargaining was between a dollar. On our way back to the hotel, I couldn't help but to feel bad because it's only a dollar to us but it's a lot of money to them. USD$50 can feed a family of 4 for a month. 

I can't help but to think some of these people probably resent the fact that they have to put up with tourists flashing their nice clothes and money around, taking pictures of them, walking around their village and inside their house and tipping them a dollar or 2. There's absolutely nothing they can do about it. They have to take that 1 or 2 dollars tip. If it is me, I will probably tell the tourist to fuck off and leave us alone.

You do have to go experience it for yourself. I'm thinking of going back again and if I do, I will volunteer at the orphanage. Maybe volunteer a few hours a day. See Siem Reap but also give back to the people who have suffered to make this land and it's wonders accessible to the people around the world.

Our villa at Golden Banana Resort.

Peter deciding on which/where to go for lunch on our first day at Siem Reap.

 

 Siem Reap Old Market area.

 

Sunset at Nom Bakhaeng.

 Hundreds of tourist were already at the top of Nom Bakhaeng when we got there. To reach the top of the temple, we had to climb the steps with each step as high as 1.5 feet and as narrow as 6 inches. You're fucked if you slip.

 

Too many tourist at the front with the perfect sunset view so we went to the back of Nom Bakheang. Lucky we did because we found this monk sitting at the back. Pic below.

My favorite pic this entire trip. Peter spotted this monk sitting at the edge of the temple (Nom Bakheang) and started taking a few snaps. I did the same.

 Locals do come up here to worship. Here I am, being an obnoxious tourist, happily snapping others while they were worshiping. It is a nice pic though. :)

Dinner at Apsara Theatre with cultural dance. It was interesting learning the Cambodian culture and the local beliefs.

Day 2 - Angkor Wat. Sorry about the blurry pic. It was taken with my iPhone. Actually, all the pix were taken with the phone. Some came out ok, some a tad blurry/pixelated.

 Couple of local kids waiting around Angkor Wat begging for money. I saw them looking inside bins to find food.

 

Locals going to work, I think. It was only 2 years ago that the government made wearing a helmet compulsory. Most of them still struggle with that so some (especially the driver) wears a helmet, not the passenger.

 

Day 2 - Angkor Wat. Pictures don't do it justice. Or maybe my photography skills just aren't good enough. I blame it on the iPhone.

Top of Angkor Wat. Well almost. They close off the top bit because someone fell from the top not long ago.

 

The carvings inside Angkor Wat. I noticed every statue carved is different, with different expression, wearing different clothes and in different poses. We were told that the temple was build first, then carved. So what happens if someone screw up the carving? Broke the nose of the statue? 

Inside Angkor Wat. Apparently, this used to be a pool.

 Peter seeking guidance inside Angkor Wat -  from the tour guide. Hehe.

Even though Angkor Wat is swarmed with tourist everyday throughout the year, the locals still come here to pray. Guess they are used to it. Don't think they have much choices anyway.

Piles of stones outside Angkor Wat. Our tour guide told us locals stack these stones. They believe the higher you are able to stack yours, the longer you live. We had a go, mine wasn't bad.

Day 2 - The big fig tree at Ta Phrom.

This is where they shot Tomb Raider with Angelina Jolie. It used to be covered in thick forest and only recently (not sure how long) the government cleared the bushes and made it another tourist attraction.

Peter mesmerised by the ermm... everything!

 Angkor Thom. Felt kinda disrespectful after taking this pic. Oh well. Sorry.

The four faced Buddha at Angkor Thom.

Bayorn - inside Angkor Thom. There are a few temples in Angkor Thom. If I remember right, it is 3km x 3km.

 One of the many headless Buddha in some temples. I don't remember why, I think it's something to do with changing of religion during that period.

Restoration in progress. A few countries actually donated the cost of restoration on these temples. France, Japan and others. See if you can figure out the Buddha lying on His side.

Cheeky girl posing for the camera (top). Kids pushing and shoving in their little bucket trying to score a dollar (center; left) Life at the floating village where 80% of them are fishermen (center; right) Heading home from a hard day's work (bottom)

Kids playing marbles during their lunch break.

The orphanage where we donated 15kg of rice. I love the pic on the left, reminds me of a scene out of Oliver Twist (top right of the pic) "Please, can I have some more?"

Our tuk tuk driver, Thy, studies while waiting for us.

My favorite drink - lime soda. After a long day out and about, having this drink will wake you up in a matter of seconds. It is so strong and limey, it works better than Redbull!

Peter scaring the local kid while getting inked.

Peter got inked on the 31st of Dec by Neng Synat.

Last dinner at Pub Street, Siem Reap, also last dinner for 2010. See you in 2011!

2010 - What a ride!

Phew! What an amazing year! 2010 is definitely one of those year which is full of fond memories. 

First off - work has been awesome! Secured a full time gig at PMP Digital - working for a client (The Good Guys). Initially, I started off as a designer, supposedly working on press ads and catalogs, doing changes etc. After a month here, I realised the job I'm doing is more of a senior designer. I'm happy doing that honestly, cos that means I get to be more creative and not get bored doing tedious price changes. But now, after having a new studio manager and changes of the process on how catalogs are created, I'm now officially one of the art directors. And of course, it came with a pay rise! Atmosphere at work is normally fun, we tend to make the best out of a bad situation by joking about it. 'You're all idiots' is one of the joke we have around the studio and every now and then, someone still use that line.... (pic: top row, center) Why so serious eh?

Then, the move. Both Peter and I moved to Footscray, which is populated by Viets. I really don't mind this place at all. It's close to the train station (not that I catch the train much) and Vietnamese restaurants and market. The only complain would be it's facing the main road, the traffic noise takes a while to get used to. And like all move, it involves shopping for new furniture etc and I must say, we did pretty well (pic: top row second from right).

Oh, not forgetting this little incident - when we moved to this new house, the cat, Rascal (pic: top row, far right), escaped after the first night. He was gone for 2 weeks and we pretty much lost hope of ever finding him. Maybe he was eaten by some Viets (just joking) but eventually, he showed up. 

Next up... at long last... I bought the dream car! Well actually not dream cos it has never occur to me that one day, I'll be driving a Mercedes yet alone a SLK (pic: top row, second from left). Yes, it might be a used SLK but still, from driving a beat up Honda Civic Coupe to driving this, the difference is massive. I"M LOVING IT!

Another fond memory, Little Drew and her obsession with markers (pic: bottom row, far left), well actually obsession with getting her arms, legs and feet inked! She absolutely loves it. Whenever she comes around, the first thing she will do is go straight to her little box where all her toys and markers are kept, give my shirt a little tug and get me to ink her. I told her mom she might grow up being a tattoo artist or at least get tattooed

And then, there's Peter (pic: bottom row, center) and his support on my tattooing hobby/business. He's the first one who agreed on giving up his left arm for me to experiment on new techniques in tattooing. It is still an on going project though so hopefully, I get the time to do more work on his arm (pic: bottom row, far right). And with his support, a few other people, contacted me via email to get work done on them. It is situation like these that boost my self esteem and gave me the confidence to go all out and do a good job. Money made from these tattoo sessions were invested in getting more supplies and better equipment. It's all working out great and I've got at least 4 more cllients that wants work done in early 2011 so tune in for updates!

Last but not least, Hamish (pic: bottom row, second from left) and Ritchie (pic: bottom row, second from right). Over the year, I did multiple trips to Sydney, for both work (freelance, check out the website I designed from scratch at http://www.flatearth.com.au) and visiting old friends and most of the time, I stayed with Ritchie. He is the one who gave me his tattoo machine to do work on. I wouldn't be tattooing today if it weren't for him. So thank you Ritchie (love ya bra!) and Hamish - the retriever who sleeps with me when I stayed with Ritchie. On one occasion, when I was drunk, I thought the dog died beside me cos he was shaking then stopped with his mouth open slightly, on his back with his legs all stiff pointing upwards. And that gave me the biggest scare in 2010! (Hamish was just playing dead I was told later on, what a bastard!) 

P/S: A big thank you for those who made this an awesome year... Peter Knight for being the best housemate, Ritchie Isherwood & Stilliano Doussis for being the best buddies, George and Cliff for my updates of Sydney, Tim Stranks for the tattoo books, Max Croft for being my regular client (tattoos), Hilary Grant and Peter Reid for the opportunity to work on your company profile and website, all Airport West PMP Digital colleagues, my sister for her instant noodles supplies, Mom & Dad for the support - mentally and financially and all you other party animals out there whom we've partied together!

2 design + 5 hours + 2 happy clients

Last Saturday was probably the best day when it come to my own tattooing business. I did 2 tattoos for 2 different client and I must say, I'm stocked with the outcome and so are they. I am getting exposure, more and more people are asking if I could do them. My response is always the same - MY PLEASURE!

Matthew, a friend I've known quite a while wanted his first tattoo and I get the pleasure of doing his first. The design is an Aboriginal cave painting of a man holding a bow. His idea was to add more as time goes by, rounding up his lower leg/ankle. It's a fairly straight forward and simple design, it actually took me longer to set up than to do the tattoo itself.

Photo courtesy of Matthew

Next, was Max Croft. He was the guy whom I did a tattoo for few months ago. He saw my sketches here on the blog, liked one of them and contacted me to get it done. Anyway, for this piece, he wanted to add more colour and expand the existing tattoo he's got on his right arm. The brief was, roses, as colourful as possible and integrate the old with the new. 

The before and after shot. Sorry about the quality of the photo. I will post a better photo once the tattoo heals up.

Courtesy of Tim

Thank to Tim for the new addition to my tattoo design library. Now I'm inspired, with lots of new ideas on tattoos. Now who wants a tattoo?? J

A quickie...

Phew... jeebus. Been crazily flat out lately. First, designing a company profile, followed by a website (first round creative done, thank god) and yesterday, did a tattoo of a chrysanthemum for Peter (an on going project, eventually, his left arm is gonna be covered with Japanese design tatts) and now working on a sketch for another client's existing tattoo.

I was gonna upload a pic of the chrysanthemum but the bruising around the area makes the design a bit too dark. I will post the pic soon, once it heal so stay tune...

Animator Vs Animation

Animator vs. Animation II by *alanbecker on deviantART

City of Life and Death (Nanjing, Nanjing)- Watch it

If there is one movie you watch for 2010, make it City of Life and Death, especially if you are Chinese or interested in history of China. I've grown up listening to my elders talk about the atrocity of the Nanking Massacre but what I saw in the film was beyond imagination. Unlike Shindler's List or John Rabe, this film focuses not on one particular hero in this kind of atrocities, but the countless ordinary people suffering from the horrors of war. Director Lu did an excellently balanced view, some may say too balanced, from the civilians and the soldiers - Chinese and Japanese alike during the rape of Nanking. The subject matter is profound, the acting is top-notch, the cinematography is excellent, however, the pacing is deliberately slow to match the mood of the film.

Synopsis
City of Life and Death takes place in 1937, during the height of the Second Sino-Japanese War. The Imperial Japanese Army has just captured the then-capital of the Republic of China, Nanjing. What followed was known as the Nanking Massacre, or the Rape of Nanking, a period of several weeks wherein tens of thousands of Chinese soldiers and civilians were killed. The film tells the story of several figures, both historical and fictional, including a Chinese soldier, a schoolteacher, a Japanese soldier, a foreign missionary, and John Rabe, a Nazi businessman who would ultimately save thousands of Chinese civilians.

[Click to watch the trailer]

Comment 1
I'm an overseas Chinese, growing up listening to my grandfather telling the stories about how bad the Japanese Military treating the Chinese people in WWII. I saw some of the movies made back in the 80's/90's about the rape of Nanking, to me they are exploitation movies and never affected me or leave me with profound experience. I'm actually disgusted with them making such low movies. Also most of the documentaries I watched never really does anything.

I watched Nanjing! Nanjing! - City of Life and Death tonight and it really drained me emotionally, the movie really depicting the real face/real ugly side of war, where the victims are always the people, doesn't matter what wars or which countries.

The movie itself doesn't really do the finger pointing like other movies, but it just showing, in my opinion, the fair view on what was going on back then without taking sides. And it shows one thing, the most profound thing to me, that The Chinese people can endure a lot of hardship that life throw at them and that's possibly why their cultures and civilization last for a long time.

Highly recommended for people who never really know this part of history, as Chinese I know about it, but for lot of my westerners friends who never been to China, they only heard about it but didn't realize how crazy it was and how significant is this event for the Chinese people. Most people know the atrocities the Nazis did in WWII, but not the Japanese Atrocities.

Comment 2
Since I am not Chinese, or of Chinese extraction, City of Life and Death has a different resonance for me. I know of the Nanking massacre (for which, it has to be said, the Japanese have yet to apologise or even properly acknowledge) from my own interest in history, as well as the John Rabe story (the Nazi who helped save thousands of Chinese civilians, until recalled to Germany since Hitler did not wish to upset his Japanese allies).

Therefore, for me, City of Life and Death retells a fearful part of history, but not one with which I have any direct connection. So while this film may resonate a certain way for Chinese viewers, be they from the mainland, Hong Kong or overseas Chinese, I can tell you that I, as a European, have seldom seen a film so powerful, gripping, dramatic and moving.

City of Life and Death is not nationalistic propaganda or a reversioning for the screen: no punches are pulled. The woman next to me was in tears. So be warned, this is not easy viewing. But by featuring on a few characters, allowing them to become fully three-dimensional human beings (not Chinese, not Asian, but human beings who live, love and feel) director Lu Chuan makes his audience feel and share their fear and terror as the Japanese invaders commit atrocity after atrocity on the fallen city's inhabitants. Never forget, this actually happened. If anything, Lu Chuan soft pedals on the horrors. They are depicted, but are not front and centre. This is not a horror film so gore hounds and ghouls should seek their thrills elsewhere. Rather, it is the arbitrariness with which the Japanese went about their murderous work that scares. Wrong place, wrong time: rape, torture, murder. This wasn't the efficient, methodical murder the Nazis introduced, but rather cold brutality, as a cat toys with a helpless mouse. Unthinking, unreasoning, just because.

Filmed in black and white, City has so many images and scenes that remain fixed in you mind long after the final credits have rolled. Lu Chuan even selects the grain and grading according to the action. The use of colour would, in this case, have weakened the film. But if City of Life and Death were just two hours of suffering it would be unworthy of an audience. So Lu Chuan gives us the central characters of Mr. Tang (John Rabe's secretary), Miss Jiang (a schoolteacher) and Kadokawa (a sensitive Japanese soldier who witness but cannot delay the unspeakable). All of them are helplessly swept up in the maelstrom, which Lu Chuan leavens with scenes of (attempts at) normal life, normal human interaction and naked attempts at survival. These are people with whom one can identify and empathise.

Yet, at heart, City of Life and Death is extremely uplifting. The message, at the end, is positive and optimistic. In writing this review, the film is coming back to me again. What I once read, black and white on a page, has been made real for me and, yes, I'm emotionally moved by it.

If you believe in the power of film, want a break from popcorn entertainment, are looking for a film that can make you feel (as opposed to having your emotions manipulated) then please go see this one. It's rare when I think a film should be seen, deserves to be seen, but City of Life and Death belong in that very rare category.

Comment 3
I finished watching this film two hours ago and the punch in the stomach I received watching it still hurts. I don't recall having received such a punch in my 60 or so years of film watching. Unlike films such as "Schindler's List" or "Empire of the Sun", this film does not take sides. It's like a candid camera operated by an invisible grand master hidden in the crowd or the rubble. It's just there recording events. As a result, despite the fact that it focuses on the big picture, the individual is not lost: Both the Chinese and the Japanese, each and every one of them, in huge crowds are real believable characters. This gives the viewer a grand and horrible sense of presence which is what makes it so painful. It would take courage to watch it again.